A couple of months on, we look back at the Veteran Vespa Club’s May 2026 spring rally, based at the Fat Lamb Country Inn near Kirkby Stephen. Big Chris recalls several days of classic two-stroke Vespas, spectacular roads, high passes, unpredictable weather and plenty of camaraderie.
It was on our return from a planning visit for our Scottish rally back in 2024 that we stumbled upon the Fat Lamb County Inn, quite by chance, while looking for a place for a bit of dinner. Little did we know then that we had stumbled upon the most perfect place to host a Veteran Vespa Rally.
The Fat Lamb Country Inn is based above Ravenstonedale, near Kirkby Stephen, just over the Cumbrian border of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. A lovely country inn, but with a twist, as the owner, Paul Bonsal, is a serious car and transport enthusiast. The interior of the Lamb has a traditional feel with a fantastic open range fire, low ceilings, and wooden floors, but this place has every wall adorned with all sorts of automotive memorabilia. And on the plus side, there are six hard-standing campervan pitches.
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After several very productive conversations with Paul, a date for our spring rally was set for mid-week, from Monday, 18th to Friday, 22nd May 2026. A mid-week rally was decided upon as this area gets rather busy on the weekend with other motorists wanting to enjoy the many beautiful roads on offer. So after almost two years of meticulous planning by Rosie and me, the event was upon us.
Sundy to Monday: Riding the Routes
Our Rosie, Mike Roberts, and I arrived on Sunday midday, and while our Rosie did some last-minute preparation at the Inn, namely making sure the gin was up to standard, Mike and I rode the big ride-out route. This was to ensure that the councils of the different regions we would pass through had not closed any of the planned route, which they are very good at, to be honest. But all was good.
We awoke on Monday morning and checked out the last route. This did have a closed section up the Buttertubs Pass, but it was supposed to be open the next day, which was our first official ride-out. I was informed to check out the Buttertubs Community website, as the residents kept everyone informed as to what was happening. But good old Google took me to a Bubble Butts Community group, not quite the same, but some wonderful images nonetheless.
On our return, the attending members began to arrive, and the whole place began to come alive with the smells and sounds only classic two-stroke Vespas can produce. Great to see so many familiar faces, all there for one purpose.
The deal for the rally was on a bed/pitch breakfast and three-course evening meal basis. Now we have stayed at the Fat Lamb on four previous occasions, and the food has always been wonderful, but goodness me, the meals and service were exceptional. With full bellies, the members slowly drifted off for a good night’s sleep in preparation for our first day’s ride out.
Tuesday: Top Gear (45 miles, maximum elevation 1,700 ft)
After the relatively calm, dry conditions of the last two days, Tuesday looked a bit changeable, to say the least, but at 10.30 all the riders set off for a gentle ride over the dales in the direction of the market town of Hawes. We were all booked to park up and display the scooters at the Dales Country Museum, where the members could also take a tour around and find out a little bit about this stunning area. Free time was also on the cards for folk to get some lunch and check out the town.
A little ahead of the program, and with all riders back, we donned our wet gear again and set off to tackle the Bubblebutts, sorry, Buttertubs Pass. This road took us past the Simonstone Hall Hotel, where Jeremy Clarkson punched his Top Gear producer, allegedly because his food was cold, and in the process, thankfully, ended his BBC career.
This was before the pass drifts and winds its way up to the highest point of 1,700 feet above sea level, before once again heading back down the dale, calling in at the Keld Green Café, where Sally and Quinn made us all very welcome, squeezing us into their lovely little place for a much-earned cuppa. Then back to the Fat Lamb for another night of drinking, feasting and socialising.
Wednesday: Route 71 (65 miles, maximum elevation 1,732 ft)
Weather conditions were changeable, but as on the previous day, we had a full complement of riders; this time we headed up through Brough past the reservoirs on the tops, before visiting Middleton-in-Teesdale for lunch. Then up and off, in the direction of Barnard Castle, before crossing the A66 and heading up through the Stang Forrest, more beautiful roads, with some rain and wind thrown in for good measure.
Once we had refreshed ourselves and dried our gloves by the open fire in the CB Inn, it was time to remount for our last section of the ride out. This was to take us up and over National Route 71, which passes the famous Tan Hill pub, the highest pub in Britain at 1,732 feet. The conditions were at first slightly damp; this then turned into fog, or perhaps we were up so high that we were actually inside a cloud. Visibility was not the best, but everyone was well disciplined in their riding and road craft. Shame the same can’t be said for the sheep, who were not very helpful, inconsiderate, and, at times, very rude and intimidating! But all was well, and by the time we arrived back in Kirkby Stephen, the roads were dry with sun and clear skies, making for an easy ride back to the Fat Lamb, where another wonderful evening was had.
Thursday: Dancing with Clouds (92.5 miles, maximum elevation 1,904 ft)
Yet another hearty breakfast, and an earlier-than-usual start time, but the members were up for it. As we snaked through the quiet, picturesque stonewall-framed roads, I, for one, was buzzing with excitement and a little apprehensive about what we had in store for the day.
After a fairly gentle meander through pretty villages and along rivers, the Vespa gang reached our first refreshment stop at The King’s Arms in Temple Sowerby, where tea, coffee, and biscuits were laid on.
A quick refresher on what was coming up next; then we set off again in lovely, bright, dry conditions, which, at first, tricked some of the members into thinking we were heading towards the sunshine and blue sky. I can imagine some of the comments whispered from beneath helmets as we turned and headed directly for the dark clouds that hid the summit of the Hartside Pass that we must encounter en route to Alston, the highest market town in England.
The Hartside, approaching from Melmerby, is approximately a 5-mile beautiful, twisty ribbon of smooth tarmac that twists, turns, and rises to the car park up on the summit at 1,904 ft. On a clear day, you can see a breathtaking panoramic vista over the Lake District, but on our ride out, you could just make out our Tail End Charlie, Stevie Spanners, in his ultra-bright attire from across the car park.” But that didn’t seem to bother any of us, as we were all on a high from the fantastic road we had just ridden (or perhaps the lack of oxygen up there) Anyway, it was brilliant fun, and rounds of applause and cheers rang out across the car park as our last rider, Kath, on her wonderful little PK 50 named Poppy Ketchup due to his vibrant red colour, arrived only a matter of minutes behind the pack. Even a group of 4 Bavarian gentlemen, who were on a tour of the area, raised a toast to us from their mobile VW minibus bar.
From there, we descended into Alston and refuelled, well… some of us did. Then a spot of lunch at the Alston House Hotel, before heading up the steep high street of the town, before descending for 20 miles back to the Teesdale House Hotel for a cuppa, before setting off on our final stretch back to base.
Everything was good with the world; all were safe, and our plans had worked perfectly. Then we ran into the worst weather of the event up on the tops on our way back to Brough. Windy, rainy, misty, and cold conditions caused visors to steam up and heads to hurt while concentrating. But again, everyone was disciplined and rode to the conditions; thankfully, no gangs of sheep on this stretch, as they were wisely seeking shelter tucked up against the dry stone walls.
As we descended into Brough, again the weather changed for the better with every turn of our small wheels, until by the time we arrived in Kirkby Stephen, it was warm, dry, and bright. Just a 6-mile dash back, saw everyone smiling and creating a sharp drop in reservoir levels as the baths of the hotel rooms were filled to the brim to revive cold and aching muscles. It was likewise with the campers, as we had hired in some excellent facilities for our use over the event.
All that remained was the Gala Evening, which was again set up in the dining room that had been wonderfully decorated by the staff, with our place mats and Veteran Vespa Club bunting. There was also a lovely surprise waiting for us. On our ride out, we encountered a lady walking a big horse. I could see that she was in control, but the horse was looking a bit concerned by our approach; we stopped, and we all cut our motors. The lady and the horse took shelter in a gateway before she thanked us and said we were OK to proceed. We did this with caution and continued on our way. It just so happened that this lady does the designing for the Fat Lamb; she knew we were holding our rally up there, and as a thank you for our courtesy, she laid on three bottles of wine for the members, totally unnecessary, but very much appreciated. As three bottles would not give all the members enough for a toast, the club bought three more, and this worked perfectly.
The gala meal was outstanding, and with customary thanks to all the attending members and the ones that helped out (you know who you are), it was time to spend the rest of the evening in great company until, one by one, everyone left for their beds.
Goodbye Friday
Friday, we awoke to glorious warm, sunny, dry weather, which thankfully would be kind to Alan and Paul, who were now the only two riders completing their journeys back home by Vespa, as Mike High had ridden all the way up from that there London Town, only for his scooter to break down and refuse to work again for the duration. But I must add, I was very selflessly loaned a beautiful P-range by Si and Sue Asquith for the rally. An outstanding event that will be remembered, only made possible by all the support and help we received. Thanks People
Words & Photos: Big Chris… an extremely proud Chairman of the Veteran Vespa Club.
Article originally appeared in Scootering Mag July 2026 issue. To subscribe with a great offer and get your mag delivered visit HERE
